Anthony Vaccarello's debut collection for Saint Laurent in Fall/Winter 2017 was a bold declaration. It wasn't just a collection of clothes; it was a statement, a reimagining of the Parisian woman for a new era, a fusion of dark romanticism and subversive style that resonated deeply with the fashion world. This collection, far from being a mere iteration of previous YSL aesthetics, was a seismic shift, a deliberate break from the past, setting the stage for Vaccarello's distinctive vision for the house. While we'll delve into the specifics of the 2017 collection, it's important to understand its impact within the broader context of the Saint Laurent legacy and its subsequent evolution.
The Fall/Winter 2017 collection was a powerful introduction to Vaccarello’s tenure. He dispensed with the often-referenced bohemian chic of previous creative directors, opting instead for a sharply tailored, intensely feminine, yet undeniably rock 'n' roll aesthetic. The silhouettes were lean, the fabrics luxurious, and the overall effect was one of confident, almost defiant sexuality. This wasn’t the demure Parisian woman; this was a woman who knew her power and wasn’t afraid to flaunt it. The collection's success lay in its ability to both honor the house's rich history while simultaneously forging a new path, a thrilling paradox that captured the attention of critics and consumers alike.
Dark Romanticism Redefined:
The "dark romanticism" wasn't about gothic gloom; it was about a sophisticated darkness, a nuanced exploration of shadow and light. Black, naturally, played a central role, but it wasn't a monolithic black. It was layered, textured, and punctuated by flashes of vibrant color – pops of crimson, deep burgundy, and electric blue – that served to heighten the drama. The collection showcased a masterful use of lace, leather, and velvet, materials that lent themselves to both the seductive and the rebellious spirit of the collection. These weren't merely decorative elements; they were integral to the overall narrative, contributing to the sense of brooding intensity that permeated the designs.
Subversive Style: A Modern Parisian Woman:
The subversive element was arguably the most striking aspect of the collection. Vaccarello challenged conventional notions of femininity, presenting a woman who was both alluring and assertive, delicate and dangerous. The signature sharp shoulders, often seen in Saint Laurent's history, were reinterpreted, becoming sharper, more angular, emphasizing a powerful, almost militaristic silhouette. Mini-skirts and dresses, paired with thigh-high boots, were not simply about showcasing legs; they were a statement of confidence and self-possession. The overall effect was one of controlled rebellion, a carefully constructed image of a woman who refused to be confined by expectations.
Saint Laurent Latest Collection (Beyond 2017):
While the Fall/Winter 2017 collection set the tone, the subsequent Saint Laurent collections under Vaccarello continued to evolve this theme. Each collection built upon the foundation laid in 2017, refining and expanding upon the core elements of dark romanticism and subversive style. Later collections explored different facets of this duality, sometimes emphasizing the romantic aspects, other times highlighting the rebellious spirit. This consistent evolution, this ongoing dialogue between darkness and light, is a hallmark of Vaccarello's tenure at Saint Laurent. The brand's identity has been consistently strengthened, attracting a new generation of customers while remaining true to its heritage.
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